
Journal · Seasonal
Greece in October
The tourist season in Greece officially ends in October, which is one of the most useful things it does. By mid-October, the cruise ships have retreated to their Mediterranean circuits. The day-trippers who materialise from nowhere every August morning have returned to their offices. Restaurants that spent summer turning tables in fifteen minutes are now willing to talk. The Aegean is, if anything, a more saturated blue.
The sea question
The water temperature in the Cyclades peaks in August and then holds through September and October, cooling slowly toward the northern winds of November. In October, the sea temperature around Santorini and Mykonos sits at 23 to 24 degrees Celsius — warmer than the Mediterranean in high summer months in other countries, and swimmable without any qualification. This is the argument, almost by itself.
Athens
October is the city’s best month. The temperature is around 22 degrees in the afternoon with low humidity. The Acropolis, which was genuinely unpleasant in August — a sun-exposed limestone plateau at 38 degrees with 5,000 daily visitors — is visitable again. The outdoor tavernas of Monastiraki and Thissio open for lunches that last, rather than meals that need to turn a table. And the museums, particularly the Acropolis Museum, have the kind of light and the kind of breathing room that make them what they’re meant to be.
“Restaurants that spent summer turning tables in fifteen minutes are now willing to talk.”
The island sequence in October
Santorini holds its character longest into autumn — the position gives it thermal mass, and the sunset light in October has a quality that the summer’s sharp white light doesn’t. Milos, an hour by ferry from Santorini, is the secret the island-hunters have been circulating for three years, and October is still quiet there: the volcanic coves, the fishing village of Klima with its coloured boathouses at the waterline, the restaurants on the harbour with the owner cooking.
Mykonos in October is the paradox: the beaches are empty but the town still has life — the restaurant season extends, the ferry connections are good, and the windmills look better without the photogenic queue of visitors arranged in front of them. For travellers who want Mykonos without the transaction, October is the only window.
What closes
Some things close in October, and knowing which prevents the itinerary from arriving at a locked gate. Most beach clubs on Mykonos and Ios operate from June to September. Some of the smaller Santorini clifftop restaurants close from mid-October. A handful of Milos accommodation options are boutique operations that the owners close when the season ends. We check current operating status on every October Greece itinerary — the landscape shifts year to year.
October is the month to which we redirect the most travellers who come to us asking for late September in Greece. The difference in cost, in crowd and in atmosphere is significant enough to make the argument almost every time. The sea is the same. The islands are finally themselves.
October is the version of Greece the photographs are secretly of: the same blue, the same light, minus the crowd that’s always cropped out of the frame. Come when the season is officially ‘over.’ That’s when the islands are finally themselves.
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