A motorbike idles outside a steaming phở stall on Hàng Bè Street. That’s where your Vietnam trip begins. You move from Hanoi’s layered Old Quarter south through Ha Long Bay’s limestone seascape, then on to Hội An and finally Saigon. The route runs roughly 1,700 kilometres. You travel it slowly, by private car, junk boat, and the SE1 Reunification Express train. June through August brings festival season and long golden evenings. You don’t watch Vietnam from a distance. You eat at the stall, take the slow boat, walk the lantern-lit lane at dusk.